Change or rekey · Wilmot
Lock Replacement & Upgrade
Three teenagers, a dog walker, a cleaner and one house key that keeps going missing.
In plain words
Lock replacement and upgrade is the service that takes tired or under-built door hardware off and puts hardware suited to the door in its place. It ranges from a like-for-like deadbolt on a back door to a complete refit of every entrance with heavier-grade locks, reinforced strikes and one key for the house. The locksmith first confirms that the person ordering the work has the right to change the lock, then examines the door, measures the existing preparation and recommends hardware that fits it cleanly. The visit ends with each lock tested from both sides, keys in your hand and the packaging and instructions left with you.
How the visit goesThe house is fifteen years old and every exterior door still wears the light hardware the builder fitted: a short bolt, a thin strike held by two small screws, and a knob lock that never suited a street entrance.
Lock Replacement & Upgrade
How the visit goes
Exposure, weather and finish
The locksmith looks at where the door lives. A side entrance beside a salted driveway, a south-facing front door in full sun and a sheltered porch each treat a finish differently, and the residential hardware label scores finish durability as its own category for exactly this reason. Existing hardware is examined for pitting, peeling and green bloom, which shows how hard the spot is on metal. That guides the choice between a PVD brass, a satin nickel, a powder-coated black or a stainless product, and whether a storm door or a small hood would help. Matching the rest of the entrance comes last, once the finish will survive the location.
Setting and reinforcing the strike
The strike side is where a replacement earns most of its value. With the door closed, the bolt is thrown and its mark checked against the pocket so the strike can be positioned to accept the full throw without rubbing. A shallow pocket is deepened until the bolt seats to its stop. Then a reinforced strike or a strike box is fitted using 75 millimetre screws that pass through the jamb and bite into the framing behind it, which is what stops a jamb splitting under a kick. Where an old forced entry has cracked the wood, it is glued and dowelled or a repair plate is fitted first.
An opening that is stronger, not just newer
Where the strike was reinforced, the improvement is mostly invisible and worth understanding. Long screws now tie the strike through the jamb into the framing, the pocket has been cut to take the whole bolt, and any split wood has been repaired. Together these make the frame the equal of the deadbolt, which is the part most break-ins defeat. The locksmith points out what changed so you can check it yourself: a bolt that seats fully with the door closed and a strike that stays put under a firm push. A twice-yearly look at those screws keeps it that way.
Lock Replacement & Upgrade
In the van
Manufacturer-approved cylinder lubricant
Adjustable latch or bolt
75 millimetre strike and hinge screws
Graded deadbolt
Boring jig and hole saws
Lock Replacement & Upgrade
What affects the quote
Type of lock
A knob set, a lever, a deadbolt, a full handleset with deadbolt above, a patio door lock and a keypad or smart deadbolt each carry a different hardware cost and take different time to fit.
Patio and French door hardware
Sliding door mortise locks, foot bolts and flush bolts for an inactive French door leaf are specialty items sized to the door, and they are quoted as their own line beside the entrance work.
Smart lock setup
Fitting a keypad or smart deadbolt includes programming codes, pairing to a phone or hub and calibrating the bolt, which is time on top of the mechanical installation and is named in the quote.
What to have ready
- Can you photograph each lock from outside, inside and along the door edge?
- Is there a sliding patio door or French door to include?
- Is the problem wear, damage, looks, a change of function or too many keys?
Lock Replacement & Upgrade: questions
QuestionsWill a new lock fit the holes already in my door?
Usually, yes. Most residential doors are prepared to standard sizes, a 54 millimetre cross bore and a backset of 60 or 70 millimetres, and most modern hardware adjusts between those backsets. The locksmith measures before choosing, so the new lock is matched to the door rather than the other way around. Where an older mortise lock or an unusual bore is found, filler plates, extension kits or a carefully jigged new bore bring the door to standard.
Is there anything different about steel or fibreglass doors?
The lock hardware is the same; the door construction changes the method. Steel and fibreglass doors have a wooden or composite block inside the lock stile, and existing bores are used wherever possible. Where a new deadbolt must be added, the locksmith drills with a jig and bits suited to the skin so the hole is clean and square, and fits an edge plate designed for that door. Insulated doors also move less with humidity, so alignment tends to hold well.
What information helps before the visit?
Photographs of each lock from outside and inside, plus one of the door edge showing the latch plate and one of the strike on the frame, tell the locksmith most of what they need. Add the door thickness if you can measure it, whether the door is wood, steel or fibreglass, the finish you want to match, how many doors are involved and whether you want them all on one key.
Related services
- Deadbolt InstallationYou bought a keypad deadbolt online and pulled the old one off, only to find the hole in the door is a different size and the bolt latch sits at a backset the new kit does not list.
- Vintage Mortise Lock ServiceSomeone painted the door years ago without removing the hardware.
- Smart Lock InstallationYou have just taken possession of the house and the previous owners handed over a keypad deadbolt with a code nobody wrote down and an app account you cannot get into.